Straight-of-grain Waistband Made Easy

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband

Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands

Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing

The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.




Waistband materials

Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of getting custom tailored garments is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures

Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types Of Cloth

Mohair

Mohair is the hair from the Angora goat. It is distinctive from wool, in that it has a different fibre structure, which hangs in ringlets and is exceedingly fine, soft and silky.

The name ‘Angora’ originates from the province of Angora in Turkey where these goats have been farmed for centuries and are said to have descended from the Cashmere goat. To achieve the best quality of Mohair fibre, the fleece should be shorn from goats under eight years old, after which time the hair becomes too coarse. The first clipping from the Angora goat is called ‘Kid Mohair’ and because it is the first ever clip, the fibre tends to be the softest.

Mohair is the most durable of all animal fibres, with natural lustre and resistance to dirt and creasing. Angora goats thrive in habitats of high altitude, warm climate, abundant grazing pastures and fresh water.

As with wool, mohair can be spun on the woollen or worsted system. Worsted mohair suiting fabrics have a clean, crisp handle with a bright, lively surface as the natural lustre of the fibre is used to full effect. They are light in weight, and yet the strength of the fibre guarantees a hard wearing, long lasting cloth.

Vicuna

Inca legend tells of the vicuna as the reincarnation of a beautiful young maiden who was wooed by an old, ugly king. She would only consent to his advances if he promised her a coat of pure gold. This is how the vicuna came to have its golden fleece. Considered sacred by the Incas, only royalty were allowed to wear the vicunas precious fleece, also known as the fibre of the gods. The attraction of vicuna fleece has not diminished with time; today, vicunas continue to be worshipped as sacred animals by the indigenous Aymara Indians of Peru and Bolivia. The incredibly soft and luxurious handle of the vicuna fleece has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after treasure since the time of the Incas. These revered mammals are to be found in the extreme heights of the Altiplano regions of the Andes, most commonly in Peru. A vicuna’s fur is thick but soft and the fibre length is rarely more than 25mm making it more suitable for woollen spun fabrics. However, the fibre that has been used to produce this range of fabrics has a staple length greater than 30mm; making it the first vicuna fibre to be spun into yarn using the worsted spinning system

Silk

Silk is a natural protein fibre spun by the silkworm as it makes its cocoon and is one of the strongest natural fibres. Silk has always held a special position as a quality fibre, and was originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but quickly became popular throughout Chinese culture, Asia and beyond by means of the Silk Road.




The Silk Road refers to the extensive trade routes across Asia, connecting North Africa and Europe. This network extended over 8,000km and enabled traders and merchants to transport luxury goods including silk, rubies, diamonds and pearls across the continents.

Silk fibres have a triangular cross section with rounded corners, allowing light to reflect at many different angles giving a natural shine and lustre. Appropriate for all climates, the naturally good moisture absorbency of silk allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties making silk cloth comfortable to wear even in warm climates.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, vegetable fibre that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. Successful cultivation of cotton requires a long frost-free period, plenty of sunshine, and a moderate rainfall.

The fibre can be spun into yarn or thread producing a soft, breathable textile. Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times, clothing the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China.

Europeans knew little about the origins of cotton prior to the 15th Century. Up until this time they believed cotton to be derived from a sheep-bearing plant, noting its similarities to wool.

Legend told of a wonderful tree which grew in India and bore tiny lambs on the ends of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they were hungry. The advent of the Industrial Revolution in Britain provided a great boost to cotton manufacture, as textiles emerged as Britain's leading export.

Linen

The manufacture of linen yarn and fabric is a complicated process, one that requires skill and expertise from the cultivation of the raw flax plant, to the combing and processing of the fibres in preparation for spinning and weaving. The use of linen dates back to ancient times; it was the first known textile fibre in the world, with the earliest traces of its use dating back to 8000 BC. Linen has also been discovered in Egyptian tombs wrapped around the mummified bodies of pharaohs, it was seen as a symbol of light and purity, and a display of wealth.

Linen is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, keeping the body cool when worn in hot climates. It has a smooth, lustrous surface with a natural resistance to dirt and staining and is the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with two to three times the strength of cotton.

Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre, with the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly, gaining up to 20% moisture content without feeling damp. The natural look of linen cloth is an elegant choice for casual wear, warm weather, weekends and holidays.

Formal Clothing For Men

shirts with suits

Dress shirt

The type of shirt worn by men with a suit is a top made of woven cloth, with long sleeves, a full-length buttoned opening down the front, and a collar. This type of garment is known in American English as a dress shirt but simply as a shirt in other English dialects. This type of shirt is sometimes called an Oxford shirt; however, this properly refers to a shirt made from a specific kind of fabric, namely Oxford cloth, in a specific style (i.e., with button-down collars). The shirt is ironed, neatly tucked into its wearer's trousers, and otherwise worn according to the etiquette described in the article Dress shirt.

The classic shirt colours are light blue or white, with white considered most conservative. However, numerous colours and shades are available, with pastels particularly popular in America, though less-formal colours are not always acceptable. Light blue shirts are traditionally favored on television because white can often appear too dazzling on screen and makes suits and ties look darker than they really are; whereas light blue makes skin look ruddier and healthier by contrast. The most formal type of dress shirt worn with a standard suit is a shirt with linked, but not French, cuffs, which are closed using cuff links or silk knots instead of buttons. However, this type of shirt is optional, and essentially up to the preferences of the wearer and the vagaries of fashion.

The most traditional collar is a spread collar. This is frequently the default collar type for French cuff shirts, though they can sometimes be found with point collars. Normally, button-down collars are reserved for casual use with a sports jacket or without a coat at all, though they have long been acceptable in America. The button-down collar is not seeing as much wear today, particularly with the resurgence of more formal shirts with spread collars and French cuffs, even in business casual wear. Also it should be noted that at-least 3/4th of an inch of the cuff of the shirt should be visible under the cuss of the suit's sleeve to show a mark of a well groomed personality.

Socks with suits

In the United States it is common for socks to match the trouser leg.This makes the leg appear longer and minimises the attention drawn by a trouser leg tailored to be too short. A more general rule is for socks to be darker than the shade of the trousers, but potentially a different colour. With patterned socks, ideally the background colour of the sock should match the primary colour of the suit. If it is not possible to match the trouser leg, socks may match one's shoes. In particular, pale or even white socks might be worn with, for example, a cream linen suit with white shoes. Although white socks may be worn with very light coloured suits, it is less common and considered a faux pas with darker suits. In practice therefore socks are usually navy, black, or brown, particularly for more conservative occasions.




Socks are preferably at least mid-calf height (over-the-calf), if not knee-height, and are usually made predominantly of cotton or wool, though luxury or dress socks may use more exotic blends such as silk and cashmere. Before WWII, patterned socks were common, and a variety of designs like Argyle or contrasting socks was commonly seen. After WWII, socks became more subdued in colour.

Accessories with suits

A pinstriped navy blue suit, with a grey one in the background, necktie and pocket square.

Belts come in and out of fashion; at the turn of the century and in the 1930s–40s they were worn less than braces (suspenders), but now are generally worn more; in some countries such as the UK, traditionalist men still do not wear belts with suits. If worn, the belt and shoes must be roughly the same colour, with the belt a smart one (leather, plain silver or gold coloured buckle). Braces are often worn if a belt is not.

Jewelry should be kept to an absolute minimum, consisting at most of cuff links, tie bars or tacks, and a timepiece. The thinner the watch, the more formal, and analogue watches are more formal than digital. In the most formal situations, a pocket watch, or no watch at all, should be worn. When worn, a pocket watch is not placed in the trouser pocket, but usually accompanies a waistcoat. In this case it may be carried in any of its pockets, but commonly where it can be easily accessed, such as a left pocket for a right-handed man. The watch is not carried loose, but is attached by a watch chain, which is threaded through the watch-hole: on traditional waistcoats, halfway down is an extra horizontal hole, not intended for a button, which is meant to be used for the watch chain; if no such hole is present, a buttonhole is used instead. A chain normally has one or two ends, the first of which attaches to the watch, the second holding either a decorative fob or a key for winding the watch; a bar in the middle catches on the buttonhole, holding the watch if it is dropped. Pocket watches are occasionally placed in the breast pocket, secured to the lapel buttonhole.

Handkerchiefs (pocket squares) in the upper welt (chest) pocket are not especially common today. Originally, handkerchiefs were worn partially protruding from the left jacket sleeve. Over time, they migrated to the breast pocket. When silk was still a rare and expensive commodity, they were considered a flamboyant extravagance by conservative commentators. By the end of the 19th century, however, they had become a standard accoutrement for gentlemen, and in some places are still considered obligatory on any jacket or coat with a breast pocket.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Elements Of Wool Overcoat

A wool coat can be an important investment. Wool coats come in a variety of shapes and forms, from business blazers to thick pea coats. The variety are vast, from Frock Coat, Top Coat, Pea Coat, Duffle Coat in luxirous wool, wool and cashmere, pure cashmere, camel hair in huge color range. Due to the variety of choices it may take some consideration to decide what type of coat is right for you. Some things to consider include the intended use of the coat, how cold it gets where you are, how long you want the coat to last, and how much you intend to spend on your new wool coat. With all these decisions, a tailor can assist you making the right choice.

As a fabric, wool has a number of advantages. Wool is naturally water resistant thanks to the lanolin it contains, although you may start to smell like a wet sheep if your wool coat gets too wet. Wool is also an excellent insulator, and a wool coat will keep you warm when other fibers might not. However, wool has a few disadvantages as well. If the fabric gets wet through, it will be very heavy and take a long time to dry. Most wool garments are also dry clean only, which can be expensive and time consuming. In addition, wool sometimes irritates the skin, and for this reason wool garments should be lined with silk, cotton, or another similar material so that the wool fibers will not cause itching.

Wool coats come in a number of weights. Some wool is light enough to be worn in the summer time in some areas, and can lend the wearer an air of style and sophistication. Thin wool tends to drape very well, making it extremely flattering on most figures. Thicker weights of wool are designed for overcoats and cold weather. Thicker wool will cause the figure to bulk out, which is an important thing to think about when buying a wool coat.


If you are a businessperson, you may want to consider a blazer or slim lined long wool coat. This type of coat could keep you warm and looking professional. Most wool blazers have a matching set of pants or skirt as well, so that you can maintain a well put together and matched look. Longer wool coats can be worn over a business suit and checked at the door or hung up in your office. In well heated buildings, this is a good option because it would allow you to wear lighter clothing underneath, and still be warm when you went outside.

If you are looking purely for warmth, a pea coat or another type of thick wool overcoat is worth investigating as well. Pea coats tend to have a more square cut, which could make you look more boxy. It is an excellent idea to try on several pea coats and find a fit which flatters you. Pea coats tend to be thick and lined, meaning that they will keep out most cold winds. When trying on an overcoat, try to wear multiple layers underneath it, so that you will get an accurate idea of how the wool coat will look and fit.

Generally, the more expensive the wool coat, the longer it will last. Sometimes you can get a deal on a quality wool coat: just be sure to look for solid, even stitching, strong well woven fabric, and 100% wool content. In thinner wool garments, a wool/cashmere or wool/silk mix would be acceptable as well. When you do decide to purchase an expensive wool coat, make sure it is custom tailored so that it fits you well.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types of Skirt

Skirts have been in fashion singe centuries, though their styles and patterns have got evolved with the time. And the best part about skirts is you can wear them at any occasion, whether you have to dress formally or simply chill out in casuals. While straight and pleated skirts impart a sophisticated look to the women, you can give the impression of being the replica of 1950’s actress by wearing full or ballerina skirts. Floral designs in skirts are liked by most of the girls in casual wear which also provides them a delicate look. In India, skirts have been in trend since times immemorial, and the cotton handloom skirts manufactured here, are loved by every Indian woman. Besides these cotton handloom skirts, there are many other types of skirts available across the world.

A-line skirts
A-line skirts, also called princess skirts, can be especially flattering to plus-size figures, but can be worn well by all figure shapes. An A-line skirt is shaped like a capital letter "A", with a snug waist spreading out into a triangular shape. A-line/princess skirts are considered a wardrobe staple, especially in a neutral color and a season-spanning fabric such as lightweight wool.
This is the basic skirt that has been customized to a great extent. With slight flare having rough shape of capital letter ‘A’, it fits at the waist while slightly touching hips and thighs; it is broader at the hem.

Flared Skirts
Actually Flared skirts are A-line skirts, but they have extra flare which beautifully covers the fat over hips and thighs. Women who are thin can also try this out in large prints as it will give a voluptuous appearance.

Fit and Flare Skirts
It is just about a variation in flared skirt and in this, flare starts from the hip, not from the waist. Girls having smaller derriere would love such skirts as it will accentuate the hip curve and cover up the lack of thigh curve.


Straight Skirts
Just true to its name, straight skirt falls rightly from the hip. These skirts suit almost everyone, though depending upon the body shape, length and waistline, results may vary.

Pencil Skirts
Hugged to the body from the waist to just above the knee, these skirts come in stretch material and with a back slit at times. Such skirts go only with slim and skinny figures as they emphasize the hips and the derriere.

Tube Skirts
Simply the longer versions of the pencil skirts, Tube skirts fit at the hip and taper at the hem. The visible difference is that they go down below the knee. It suits slim figures.

Mini Skirts
These casual and sexy skirts are loved more by men than women. Mini skirts can be very short and just right to reveal a beautiful pair of legs. Short women can always rely on this because mini skirts elongate the legs.

Pleated Skirts
Plated skirts appear best in short length, just above the knees. The flare of this skirt is reduced by plates and it fits the waist. It looks nice on both, slim and a little plump figures.

Asymmetric Hem Skirts
Asymmetric Hem Skirts come in a variety of shapes and suit a variety of figures. In this, the hem moves and curls in a pattern at different levels. It usually conceals various flaws at the hip, thigh or leg.

Bias Cut Skirts
Bias cut skirts are cut across the fabric's grain on the diagonal. Cutting on the bias creates a flowing hemline that can seem ultra-feminine and romantic. Bias cut skirts can be long or short and have panels or multi-layers.

Tulip Skirts
Tulip skirts have more fabric around the hips than pencil skirts, giving them the shape of an inverted tulip. Tulip skirts look good on most figure types, especially slender figures as tulip skirt fabric tends to add a little extra bulk around the hips.

Fishtail Skirts
A traditional fishtail skirt is a long, ankle-length skirt that is tightly fitted from the waist to the knee and then flares out to create a fishtail look. Some new designs of the fishtail skirt have a pleated area between the legs and crotch that allows the wearer more leg room to walk. Fishtail skirts are often worn for nicer occasions like weddings or proms.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

What is A Thread Count?

Thread count refers to the number of threads, both vertical and horizontal, in a one-inch square of fabric. Thread count is affected by a number of factors, including ply and thickness of the threads used. The ply of the fabric refers to how many threads are wrapped together into a single thread. Single-ply fabrics use threads on their own, while two-ply fabrics twist two pieces together into a stronger thread, as well as doubling the thread count of the fabric.

Using finer threads also allows for more thread to fit in a square inch. Finer thread often results in smoother, softer fabrics, part of the reason high thread count fabrics are considered more desirable than fabrics with a low thread count. Finer thread also results in a more fragile fabric, however, which may not always be ideal. Two-ply fabrics help solve this problem somewhat by strengthening the threads and creating a more durable, though heavier, fabric.

While it has become common to shop for such things as bed linens, shirts based exclusively on thread count, it is important to take other considerations into account. How the cotton is treated can be a much more decisive factor in comfort and overall feel than the thread count of a fabric, as can the final finishing of the fabric.


The general wisdom is that a thread count of higher than 100 is desirable --these fabrics are known as percale -- with somewhere above 180 being ideal. While fabrics are available with thread counts up to 1000, anything in excess of 400 is considered by most to be simply extraneous. In the case of some fabrics, a high thread count is simply not a viable option. Flannel, for example, as a result of its other properties as a material, has consistently low thread counts, but this is in part what gives it its sought-after feel.

The most common products for which thread count is an issue are sheets, and more and more linen manufacturers sell their products largely on the basis of having a high thread count, as well as the inclusion of high-status materials such as Egyptian cotton. Other products are jumping into the thread count craze, however, with everything from dresses to men's shirts listing thread count on their packaging. A number of high-end clothing companies have begun offering men's shirts with thread counts as high as 170 or 180, boasting an almost silk-like feel.


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Emerging Craze of Custom Cloths

As the world becomes more and more complex, the sane seek more sanity in simplification. It seems pure shopping pleasure just isn’t there anymore. Is it just because we have no time? Are the choices just too overwhelming? Or do we just detest fitting rooms? While many of us can answer “yes” to at least one of these, the question remains, what do we do about it? We have to wear clothes in most societies and most people have a desire to be attractive in public, polished and well groomed in the office, and comfortable enough not to be thinking about their appearance all day. Let’s face it, spending Saturday at the mall begins to lose it’s appeal sometime after our 25th birthday.

Little has the power to make a person feel more uncomfortable than an ill fitting ensemble. No matter how fabulous it looks on the hanger, if it drapes poorly on your body, it is a mistake. But don’t despair! Just because a particular cut fails to flatter your body, it certainly doesn’t mean you have to abandon the idea all together. A custom clothing professional can re-create something more suitable to your frame in keeping with the style you desire.

Here are a few points to take under consideration as you revamp your wardrobe for the coming season

1. When you buy career wear, evening wear, or even a good jean “off the rack”, the chances of a perfect fit are rare. If it flatters your body, you feel good in it and it requires simple alterations, it is money well spent to spring for the little added expense of having a trained professional alter the garment to fit your body.

2. Time is money! How many times have you spent an entire day shopping only to come home empty handed or with disappointments? A better use of your time and hard-earned income is to find a professional in your area to make a custom creation for you. It may seem an impressive expense. Certainly, custom clothing is an investment, but done in the finest fabric you can afford and created especially to fit your body, it is a contribution worth making.


3. Whether engaging a custom clothier or a seamstress to create a garment for you; don’t hesitate to ask for reference or to see some examples of their work. A qualified professional should welcome the request.

4. When investing in custom clothing, be sure to insist on generous seam allowances. None of us like to imagine the possibility of finding the need to accommodate a few extra pounds, but the expense of a slight alteration will be considerably more welcome than the price of remaking the garment.

If you still aren’t convinced custom clothing are for you due to the rapidly changing world of fashion trends, consider basing your wardrobe on well fitting essentials. The simple little black dress, made to perfectly flatter your frame, will rescue you from many last minute emergencies for years to come. A basic, impeccably tailored pencil skirt or pant in your choice of neutral color will serve as a companion to the trendy new tops you find off the rack. A good, classic overcoat will be your best friend for years to come. You don’t have to be wealthy to invest in good custom pieces. Think of them as a business investment since, let’s face it, image counts for a lot. With well fitting garments, you can look great regardless of your shape or size.

The wrong accessories will spoil your perfectly groomed image. Be sure to choose good quality shoes and handbags which reflect your personal good taste and style. A tattered handbag will spoil any outfit, no matter how beautiful your ensemble, it is the first thing people will notice. After seeing an inappropriate bag, their eyes will drop instinctively to your shoes and your custom clothing expense will be an unnoticed effort.

Consider investing in one good custom piece to add to your wardrobe this season. Try it, and I estimate by next season you will be adding as many pieces as you can afford. You will surely wonder how you ever managed without your custom wardrobe!

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com