Straight-of-grain Waistband Made Easy

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband

Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands

Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing

The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.




Waistband materials

Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of getting custom tailored garments is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures

Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

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Types Of Cloth

Mohair

Mohair is the hair from the Angora goat. It is distinctive from wool, in that it has a different fibre structure, which hangs in ringlets and is exceedingly fine, soft and silky.

The name ‘Angora’ originates from the province of Angora in Turkey where these goats have been farmed for centuries and are said to have descended from the Cashmere goat. To achieve the best quality of Mohair fibre, the fleece should be shorn from goats under eight years old, after which time the hair becomes too coarse. The first clipping from the Angora goat is called ‘Kid Mohair’ and because it is the first ever clip, the fibre tends to be the softest.

Mohair is the most durable of all animal fibres, with natural lustre and resistance to dirt and creasing. Angora goats thrive in habitats of high altitude, warm climate, abundant grazing pastures and fresh water.

As with wool, mohair can be spun on the woollen or worsted system. Worsted mohair suiting fabrics have a clean, crisp handle with a bright, lively surface as the natural lustre of the fibre is used to full effect. They are light in weight, and yet the strength of the fibre guarantees a hard wearing, long lasting cloth.

Vicuna

Inca legend tells of the vicuna as the reincarnation of a beautiful young maiden who was wooed by an old, ugly king. She would only consent to his advances if he promised her a coat of pure gold. This is how the vicuna came to have its golden fleece. Considered sacred by the Incas, only royalty were allowed to wear the vicunas precious fleece, also known as the fibre of the gods. The attraction of vicuna fleece has not diminished with time; today, vicunas continue to be worshipped as sacred animals by the indigenous Aymara Indians of Peru and Bolivia. The incredibly soft and luxurious handle of the vicuna fleece has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after treasure since the time of the Incas. These revered mammals are to be found in the extreme heights of the Altiplano regions of the Andes, most commonly in Peru. A vicuna’s fur is thick but soft and the fibre length is rarely more than 25mm making it more suitable for woollen spun fabrics. However, the fibre that has been used to produce this range of fabrics has a staple length greater than 30mm; making it the first vicuna fibre to be spun into yarn using the worsted spinning system

Silk

Silk is a natural protein fibre spun by the silkworm as it makes its cocoon and is one of the strongest natural fibres. Silk has always held a special position as a quality fibre, and was originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but quickly became popular throughout Chinese culture, Asia and beyond by means of the Silk Road.




The Silk Road refers to the extensive trade routes across Asia, connecting North Africa and Europe. This network extended over 8,000km and enabled traders and merchants to transport luxury goods including silk, rubies, diamonds and pearls across the continents.

Silk fibres have a triangular cross section with rounded corners, allowing light to reflect at many different angles giving a natural shine and lustre. Appropriate for all climates, the naturally good moisture absorbency of silk allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties making silk cloth comfortable to wear even in warm climates.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, vegetable fibre that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. Successful cultivation of cotton requires a long frost-free period, plenty of sunshine, and a moderate rainfall.

The fibre can be spun into yarn or thread producing a soft, breathable textile. Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times, clothing the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China.

Europeans knew little about the origins of cotton prior to the 15th Century. Up until this time they believed cotton to be derived from a sheep-bearing plant, noting its similarities to wool.

Legend told of a wonderful tree which grew in India and bore tiny lambs on the ends of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they were hungry. The advent of the Industrial Revolution in Britain provided a great boost to cotton manufacture, as textiles emerged as Britain's leading export.

Linen

The manufacture of linen yarn and fabric is a complicated process, one that requires skill and expertise from the cultivation of the raw flax plant, to the combing and processing of the fibres in preparation for spinning and weaving. The use of linen dates back to ancient times; it was the first known textile fibre in the world, with the earliest traces of its use dating back to 8000 BC. Linen has also been discovered in Egyptian tombs wrapped around the mummified bodies of pharaohs, it was seen as a symbol of light and purity, and a display of wealth.

Linen is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, keeping the body cool when worn in hot climates. It has a smooth, lustrous surface with a natural resistance to dirt and staining and is the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with two to three times the strength of cotton.

Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre, with the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly, gaining up to 20% moisture content without feeling damp. The natural look of linen cloth is an elegant choice for casual wear, warm weather, weekends and holidays.